The Island of Crete

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The Island of Crete - The Snowy Mountains in Winter

It sits, basking, in the eastern Mediterranean Sea, just a short 125 miles off the African coast and a 'hop' of a boat journey from Israel.

This strategic position, placed at the 'crossroads' of trade from Egypt, west from Rome and east from Mesopotamia and Arabia made it a valuable piece of land from the earliest days of trade and political power brokering.

I first came to the island of Crete in my late teens, over thirty years ago. Now, however, I feel as though that 'girl', who thought nothing of dancing with strange men until 5 o'clock in the morning, is someone else entirely. It was wonderful and terribly romantic.

No longer do women walk around in shoes made from sections of worn out motor tyres - tied with course string, and gone are the shy youngsters who would look excited at the arrival of us 'strangers-from-abroad'. And, whilst the young might now drive the latest 4x4's, you will still pass shepherds tending their flocks and come across men and women in traditional dress.

Nevertheless, despite many changes, the island of Crete has lost none of it magnetic charm as it still draws in thousands of tourist every year; almost one-quarter of the entire total visitor numbers to Greece.

The Island of Crete Map

It isn't simply Greece's largest island, but arguably the most fascinating and diverse.

This is one Greek island which is living in the 21st. century. A major factor perhaps, why more Europeans settle in Crete, than any other island.

It's remarkable history is evident right across the island, from the ruins of Minoan palaces, Venetian fortresses, old mosques and Byzantine monasteries to the cave that is the legendary birthplace of Zeus.

The Venetian ports of Hania (Chania) and Rethymno are two of Greece's most evocative cities. Visiting Hania is always a highlight of any trip we make to this magical island of Crete. We also love to inspect the treasures that can be found in Iraklio's archaeological museum.

The island of Crete is renowned for its natural beauty and diverse landscape; a reason why so many of us return each year.

Spectacular snow-capped mountain ranges, punctuated with caves, are slashed by dramatic gorges that spill out to the sun-drenched beaches and sea.

In our younger days, we often hiked through one of the longest gorges in Europe, the Samaria Gorge. After our long walk, we would relax the following day on the beach at Preveli.

The rugged interior is interspersed with huge plateaus and fertile plains. The east coast boasts of Europe's only palm tree forest beach and the south coast has some of the most divine beaches and isolated coves.

Ferry Connections

The island of Crete has ports at Iraklio, Souda (for Hania), Rethymnos, Agios Nikolaos, Sitia and Kissamos. The car price for ferries from Crete to the mainland is about €86.

Ferries may stop at different islands en route and sailing times vary on some routes because of the type of craft used. The following are the main high-season schedules; services are reduced by about half during low season.

The Seasons Have True Meaning
on The Island of Crete

Summer Fruits

As summer commences, the cereals are harvested and the land takes on an ochre hue. Birdsong gives way to the sound of cicada, and the smell of honeysuckle intoxicates you as it rises in the evening air.

Midsummer sees Cretans looking for shade to escape the heat, while the tourists head out to the beaches, in droves, to top up their long-awaited tans.

The hollow clanging of goat bells can be heard across the countryside as flocks desperately search for sustenance in the now parched hills.

Autumn brings a cooling of the temperature, yet a warming of the landscape, as the colours mellow in the shallow arc of the late season sun.

Stucco on buildings takes on a rosy hue, the grapes swell to tempting perfection, and the gravitiy casts its wand over plump fruits. Soon, winter brings a blanket of snow to the mountains; wood smoke fills the air, and the old folks retreat to their winter homes with warm hearths as crowds gather at the winter sports resorts.

The olive harvest is the focal point of the year. The crop reigns supreme and millions of trees blanket hillside slopes and coastal plains, a symbol of man's reliance on the earth. It has sustained the indigenous population of the island of Crete for too long to be treated with disdain.

Where Should You Go
On The Island of Crete?

The island of Crete is comparatively large, and every part has its loyal devotees and it's difficult to pick out any specific resort. If you want to see a lot of what it has to offer in one single trip, then you need to plan your itinerary carefully. Staying at a central base allows for excursions to both the east and west.

Crete is divided into four administrative areas: first the capital, Iraklio followed by the central region with Rethymno; then you move east and the capital city Agios Nikolaos, before finally exploring the western part and Hania.

Wherever you are staying though, you don't have to travel far inland to remove yourself from the crowds. Also, remember that the countryside is filled with hidden treasures; traditional communities, frescoed churches and mountain paths that lead to unexpected surprises. All of these are waiting to be discovered on the unique island of Crete.

Iraklio (Heraklion) is the province which see more tourists than any other on the island of Crete, yet it comes as a surprise to the many travellers who are more used to Greek islands further north in the Aegean Sea. The city at first sight can seem an unyielding traffic ravaged metropolis, particularly if you arrive expecting to see a quaint Aegean island town.

However, if you can if you can infiltrate and get past this façade you will become an active part of a vibrant modern working city with countless congested alleyways, continuous building work and lots of dust. It also has innumerable attractive features which do much to temper first impressions and calm the soul.

It boasts a string of big resorts lying to the east, is only an hour or so from the airport, and the wonderful Minoan sites, almost all of which are concentrated in the centre of the island. And there are very good beaches all along the north coast.

It's an authentic city bustling with activity. Its streets are filled with bankers and all sorts of business people. There is a very lively 'young scene' based around the university, and as such, a sophistication to match any other university city around the world.

The script at the bottom reads: Iraklio, Crete, 12 January 2008. Whilst wandering along the waterfront of Crete's largest city, I saw the most bizarre, captivating flock of birds in the distance... they stayed in perfect formation while forming a dizzying array of biomorphic shapes - ruby rudnick 2008.

In the narrow back streets you will witness small workshops manufacturing iron and timber furniture by hand.

Although there are many modern buildings, they sit shoulder-to-shoulder with the finest examples of fine old mansions which are evidence of an older Iraklio, that is really exciting to explore.

The first few days could be spent visiting the archaeological museum and nearby Knossos in Iraklio (Heraklion). Whatever you do, you will, at some time, want to get away from the hustle and bustle of the sprawling city; to say nothing about the heat.

Heading west out of Iraklio on the New National Road you will travel toward the regional capital of western Crete, Rethymno. On the 50 mile trip, which should take about one hour, you will pass the coastal resorts Agia Pelagia, with organised water-sports, Bali and Panormos. Alternatively, you can take the Old National Road, which meanders inland to the more rugged and interesting landscapes of the island of Crete.

In summer the mountains seem as though they are 'touching' the clear azure-blue sky; in winter they are capped in a layer of snow and swathes of potential menacing clouds, and the villages appear as though they are suspended on this swirling blanket of 'cotton-candy'.

The area is less densely populated than other parts of the island and it has more annual rainfall.

The plus side of this of course, is the more lush and greener environment, which is in stark contrast to the east, and makes it an ideal choice for your holiday or vacation.

Western Crete offers a diverse range of attractions; two delightful coastal towns on the north coast; unspoiled mountains where you can get away from the crowds and have a taste of Cretan pastoral life, and the tiny coastal villages of the south which can only be reached on foot or by boat.

Rethymno doesn't feel like the third largest city on the island of Crete, it is more reminiscent of a smaller cosmopolitan town and it's a place whose pace is slow. There is an array of ever changing bars, but despite this it does retain its charm, and most importantly, preserves much of its Venetian and Turkish 'form'.

If you approach the town from the east in the evening, you will notice the skyline is dominated by the huge Venetian fortress and slight minarets on the fine buildings appearing in a 'support role' to the main star, the fortress.

Travelling west, you will come across the captivating city of Hania (Chania), and when used as a base, getting around the north coast is easy enough: it's a heavily populated region, with excellent roads and a stream of buses along the main routes. If you're dependent on public transport, trying to get off the beaten track presents more of a problem. On the Rodhopou peninsular, for example, there are no regular services at all and, while most inland villages are served by at least a couple of daily buses, it can be frustrating if you want to get to several places in the day.

Renting a vehicle or motorcycle is a good investment, and there are plenty of outlets in Hania and all the resorts. Remember, though that this is a very mountainous part of the island of Crete - whilst smaller mopeds may be okay for just one rider, with two people on board they simply won't make it up many of the hills. Many people have been injured because the bike just couldn't make it.

Hania, as many of its residents will attest, is the spiritual capital of Crete, even if the political title is now officially bestowed on Iraklion's urban sprawl. With its shimmering waterfront, crumbling masonry and web of alleyways. It is an extraordinarily attractive city, especially if you can catch it in the spring, when the Lefka Ori's snowcapped peaks seem to hover above the roofs. The permanent population - expanding into hill and coastal suburbs - always outnumbers the tourists, although in August, visitors do seem to run them pretty close.

Hania has plenty to fill a good day or two's sightseeing; highlights include the Venetian harbours a quartet of museums, dealing with archaeological naval, Byzantine and folklore themes, as well as plenty of Minoan ruins dotted throughout the old town.

But the greatest pleasure of all, perhaps, is to be hard wandering the narrow streets and stepped alleyways of the old quarters, filled with Venetian and Turkish architectural gems - vestiges of a time when the city was a jewel of the Mediterranean. Include lots of accommodation and taverners, excellent markets, stores and nightlife, and it all adds up to a city worth getting to know, and - once you've been seduced by its charms - where you will almost certainly stay longer than you intended on the island of Crete.

It has a wide, sandy beach and a palm fringed promenade which looks as though it is 'restraining' the tousled streets of the old town.

There are literally hundreds of bars, cafes, tavernas and discos, yet you will not see a large hotel on the front, as they are all on the outskirts, or out of town, on the long stretches of shoreline to the east. Staying in town is not a problem, as long as you stay away from the sea front, and you will find it is fairly quiet of a night time, but during the day it is a different matter; it can be a noisy dynamic place.

If you are looking for something to do on the odd wet day, I would recommend one of the two museums available, which are very good. Alternatively, you could, without travelling too far, head for the hills in the south-east to Moni Arkadhi, a compelling icon of the Cretan struggle for independence. You could also spend a couple of hours in the locality of the nearby mountains.

On the road to the south coast, is the interesting Minoan cemetery at Armeni, just a short journey south of the city.

Travelling west, you will come across the captivating city of Hania (Chania), and when used as a base getting around the north coast is easy enough: it's a heavily populated region, with excellent roads and a stream of buses along the main routes. If you're dependent on public transport, trying to get off the beaten track presents more of a problem. On the Rodhopou peninsular, for example, there are no regular services at all and, while most inland villages are served by at least a couple of daily buses, it can be frustrating if you want to get to several places in the one day.

Renting a vehicle or motorcycle is a good investment, and there are plenty of outlets in Hania and all the resorts. Remember though, this is a mountainous part of the island of Crete - and whilst smaller mopeds may be okay for just one rider, with two people on board, they simply won't make it up many of the hills. Believe it or not, a lot of accidents happen because bikes don't have sufficient power.

Hania, as many of its residents will attest, is the spiritual capital of Crete, even if the political title is now officially bestowed on Iraklio's urban sprawl.

With its shimmering waterfront, crumbling masonry and web of alleyways, it is an extraordinarily, attractive city, especially if you can catch it in the spring, when the Lefka Ori's snowcapped peaks seemed to hover above the roofs.

The permanent population - expanding into hill and coastal suburbs - always outnumbers the tourists, although in August, visitors do seem to run them pretty close.

Hania has plenty to fill a good day or two is sightseeing; highlights include the Venetian harbours, a quartet of museums, dealing with archaeological, naval, Byzantine and folklore themes, as well as plenty of Minoan ruins dotted throughout the old town.

But the greatest pleasure of all, perhaps, is to be had wandering the narrow streets and stepped alleyways of the old quarters, filled with Venetian and Turkish architectural gems - vestiges of a time when the city was a jewel of the Mediterranean. Include lots of accommodation, and taverners, excellent markets, stores and nightlife, and it all adds up to a city worth getting to know, and - once you've been seduced by its charms - where you will almost certainly stay longer than you intended on the island of Crete.

The eastern part of Crete is a fascinating mixture of landscapes. The oldest, more established resorts are dotted along the northern coast, while the interior has lush green valleys, which divide the mountain ranges, which were extremely remote, until very recently. In this area of the island of Crete you may still enjoy the traditional rural lifestyle that has been in existence for centuries.

This part of the northern coast, was the primary area for development during the 1970s and 80s, and it is not to everybody's taste. It reminds me of certain places on the Spanish coast line; there are large concrete hotels and apartments and it's the home for many European nationals, with English, German and Dutch menus, satellite football and all the favourite northern European TV programmes.

It's almost impossible to believe that you are on a Greek island as we tourists know them. However, if you want almost non-stop fun, then this is the place for you. Water parks, bungee jumping, go-karting, bars and nightclubs - it's all here!

Heading east from Agios Nikolaos, the road along the northern coast is in the long process of being updated. Eventually, the Northern Road drops into Sitia, a bustling town of over 8000 people, which benefits from its relative isolation from the main tourist resorts. Tavernas and a waterfront cafes cater much more to local clientele and the town makes a living from its busy port.

Sitia also has a very pleasing archaeological Museum (open Tuesday - Sunday 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.) displaying finds from Petras and Gournia. You will find it, just south of the town centre. Sitia is the gateway to the far east of the island of Crete. Now sparsely populated, it is the area of several important Minoan sites suggesting that many people lived here 3000 years ago.