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Kea Island, Cyclades
 

Pothia The
Capital of Kalymnos

Pothaia or Pothia, is a vibrant little port whose waters are deep enough to accommodate some of the bigger cruise line ships. It has been built, over the centuries, in an amphitheatrical style defined by the layout of the land.

As you approach the island by ferry, it suddenly hits you that this is not your typical 'touristy' Greek holiday destination; although thousands of visitors do go to Kalymnos each year. Perhaps they go because it is so different from many of the other islands, or maybe they return year after year because they like the idea of going somewhere they can live amongst the working islanders.

The Vibrant Busy Port of Pothia

It is busy, very busy, and what you see as you arrive, is a town at work. It is quite a contrast to other parts of Kalymnos.



Even in the height of the summer season, the islanders never stop.

They can't, what you see is a people at work, going about their daily business, just in the same way that you do, when you are at home.

If you didn't know you were on a small island in the middle of the Aegean Sea, you would be excused for thinking you were in some cosmopolitan section of an international city. Such is its attraction.

As you disembark from the boat, of which, 90% of visitors to the island do, you realise that nobody is really taking any notice of you. It's almost as if you are not even visible. Of course, the taxi drivers are aware of your presence, they want the biggest fare they can get, but apart from them, you do not register on the 'Pothia radar'.

Some visitors consider it to be quite daunting, but most find it exciting, and so it should be, as this is a place where absolutely everything is going on, usually under the glare of bright Aegean sunshine with clear blue skies.

The restaurants and bars along the harbourside have usually been open since early morning, and there are many patrons who have been there since opening time, drinking coffee, Greek style of course, and Ouzo with plenty of water.

What you will see here is probably nothing like the things you see at home. Some of it, is mesmerising and other things are quite simply surprising.

Greek Caiques in Pothia Harbour

It's mesmerising to see the big gulets, or caiques as they are known in Greece, coming and going, manoeuvring, in and out of the hectic harbour.

It's equally mesmerising to see a parade of Vespas and motorcycles so loud that you sometimes wonder how residents tolerate it. In the town you would think you had entered a recording studio - that is, if it weren't for the street touts selling their popcorn or fish and the birds singing in the trees that line the harbour...

We find it extremely surprising to watch as a family of three, or sometimes four, climb on board a scooter, all without helmets or safety clothing, and simply take off down the road as if they were going on a picnic for the day on some special outing.

On other occasions, you will see elderly ladies being taken home by their younger sons, riding 'side-saddle' as pillion passengers...not on scooters, but on 1000cc super-bikes. WHOA!

They will, invariably, be carrying several large bags of shopping as well. And not for them the protection provided by helmets and leathers. Oh no, these hell-raisers opt for light summer dresses and shoes.

Whilst looking quite terrifying, it is a sight to behold. I am going to see if I can get photo for the site so you can see for yourself.

However, I feel sure that certain of these 'hells angels' know that one wrong move with Mama, could lead to a lot of trouble; they always ride safely with Mama on-board.

Pothia is densely built between two mountains, with two and three storey houses, normally painted in white, ochre or pastels. Each has a different colour for their doors and window shutters. It's a mass of concrete, but when sun shines on the many colours it comes alive; vibrant.

Pothia Early In The Morning

The Prefects office, the City Hall as well as the reading-rooms of The Muses are buildings that stand out. The quay is decorated with statues, the works of Michalis Kokkinos and his daughter Eirini.

The scenery changes as you leave the city, with tree lined roads and the pine trees and cypress trees give an intense green colour, a total contrast to the city centre.

From the Pothia begin three roads which connect the city with the rest of Kalymnos.

The first of these roads heads in a south-easterly direction and shortly outside of Telonion it branches into two. One of the roads leads to Therma (2 km.) where in the past there were hot springs with radium waters. The other road leads up to the top of the mountain where the Monastery of All Saints is located in the settlement of Vothynon (4.6 km.), then it continues to the Monastery of Saint Catherine (5.2 km.) and to the fabulous coastal area of Vlychadia.

The main road which runs from the Cathedral and City Hall takes a westerly direction to Chorio (2.8 km.) As you leave the village behind you with the cemetery on the left, there is a road leading to Argos as well as the road to the new island's airport.

After 4 kilometres the main arterial road reaches the town of Elies (5.4 km.) Upon reaching Elias square, the road on the left leads to the beaches of Kantouni and Linaria and a second road leaves the square and heads towards Plati Gialos.

Beyond Elies the road continues to Myrties (7.5 km.), Masouri (8.5 km.) Arginontas (12 km), Skalia (17 km.) and Emporios which is 20 kilometres.

The third road starts at Pothia and heads in a north-easterly direction. As you move away from the city you will find Lafasi, with the island's shipyards. Shortly after the shipyards, you come across the bay of Akti and finally, after 10 kilometres you reach the big verdant valley of Vathy with the homonymous bay. From Vathy a 6.7 kilometre drive takes you to Daso and a couple of kilometres further takes you to Stimenia.

Small buses can take you to almost anywhere on the island and during the summer time they run more frequently in order to accommodate the increased needs of the tourists. The buses belong to the municipality of Kalymnos. I have to say, that we quite often use the bus service on the island and we find it to be quite reliable.

One thing you need to know, when you travel by bus, is to always buy your tickets before you board the vehicle, as the odd driver may refuse to take you without one.

However, those that allow you on, always make a stop at a local shop, en-route, where you will be able to obtain one. But it can be embarrassing if the shop keeper is dealing with another customer and you have to wait...you don't always get the best of receptions when you return to the bus ten minutes later.

In addition to the buses, there are plenty of taxis (somewhere in the region of 50-60 I would say, so the service is such that you are not hanging around for very long before one comes along.

If you wish you can go to the central taxi rank/stand and there will always be one there for you. We have never, ever been to the rank/stand and had to wait. We always get one immediately.



There are seven banks on the island and they are all in the capital. In fact, there may be another new bank coming to the island very soon; I'll keep you posted.

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